Here you can find a whole lot of information about the construction of the homecontrol4me network radio outlet control.
For further support and instructions please visit the forum.

Shopping List

  • Arduino Uno, Arduino Mega 2560 (recommended for projectextension) or similar
  • Arduino Ethernet Shield
  • 433/434 MHz Transmitter (up to 9/12V up to the used power supply)
  • 433/434 MHz Empfänger (5V) (optional: if you want to keep using the original remote)
  • Circuit board with soldering points
  • Connection wires
  • Case

You can purchase all the needed parts here: Watterott electronic


Arduino Uno

The Arduino Uno is a microcontroller board based on the ATmega328. It has 14 digital input/output pins (of which 6 can be used as PWM outputs), 6 analog inputs, a 16 MHz ceramic resonator, a USB connection, a power jack, an ICSP header, and a reset button. It contains everything needed to support the microcontroller; simply connect it to a computer with a USB cable or power it with an AC-to-DC adapter or battery to get started. The Uno differs from all preceding boards in that it does not use the FTDI USB-to-serial driver chip. Instead, it features the Atmega16U2 (Atmega8U2 up to version R2) programmed as a USB-to-serial converter. The board can be used as keyboard, joystick or MIDI interface via PC. On top of that no additional drivers are required for the board since the PC will automatically recognize it as “Arduino” due to the new USB ID.

Arduino Ethernet Shield

The Arduino Ethernet Shield allows an Arduino board to connect to the internet. It is based on the Wiznet W5100 ethernet chip. The Wiznet W5100 provides a network (IP) stack capable of both TCP and UDP. It supports up to four simultaneous socket connections. Use the Ethernet library to write sketches which connect to the internet using the shield. The ethernet shield connects to an Arduino board using long wire-wrap headers which extend through the shield. This keeps the pin layout intact and allows another shield to be stacked on top. There is an onboard micro-SD card slot, which can be used to store files for serving over the network. It is compatible with the Arduino Uno and Mega (using the Ethernet library). The onboard microSD card reader is accessible through the SD Library. When working with this library, SS is on Pin 4. The original revision of the shield contained a full-size SD card slot; this is not supported. The shield does not come with the PoE module built in, it is a separate component that must be added on.

433MHz transmitter and receiver

Most of the radio outlets work at a frequency of 433.92MHz. Since this frequency is closer to 434MHz, the appropriate transmitters and receivers are often listed as 434MHz. Those are the easiest and cheapest possibility to send and receive data. They can be used for a wide variety of things like transmitting measurements, regulating radio outlets garage motors and many more. The modules reach up to 500 meters outside. Most of the receivers use 5V Voltage, most of the transmitters use between 5V-12V (with an increasing voltage, the range increases as well – these voltages may vary). The handling of these modules is fairly easy. Signals are transmitted to the data-Pin at the transmitter and read out at the data-Pin of the receiver. Amplitude Shift Keying (ASK) is used to digitally modulate the amplitude. The data transfer ratio is limited to 2400bps.

Wires and circuit board

To combine the components, a small strip board with soldering points is needed (the electrical board matrix distance should be 2.54mm). The transmitter and receiver should be soldered to the strip board. After that the wires need to be soldered to connect the transmitter and the receiver to the Arduino.

Hint: If you want to experiment, buy a Breadboard - this is a test board on which the wires and the components can be easily attached. These BreadBoards are included in the most Arduino Starter Kits


The choice of the case is up to you. It only needs to provide enough space for all parts. In order for the radio waves to be able to pierce through the case, it should be made out of plastic. The Arduino board can be driven with a Voltage of 6V – 12V. If you use a 9V power supply you do not need to bother with the temperature inside the case. To be able to use a 12V power supply safely, you need to ensure a functional heat flow since the voltage regulator of the Arduino tends to overheat.

Fritzing circuit diagram

The wiring of the components is fairly easy

The GND Pin(-) of the receiver must be connected to the GND Pin(-) of the Arduino.
The VCC Pin(+5V) of the receiver must be connected to the+5V Pin of the Arduino.
The Data Pin of the receiver must be connected to the Pin2 (Interrupt 0) of the Arduino
(should the receiver have several GND Pins the remaining ones need to be bypassed and afterwards connected to the Arduino’s GND Pin).
Some receivers may require you to solder an antenna - you can use a 17cm long wire.

The GND Pin(-) of the transmitter must be connected to the GND Pin(-) of the Arduino.
The VCC Pin(+) of the transmitter must be connected to the +9V Pin or Vin of the Arduino.
The Data Pin of the transmitter must be connected to the Pin 7 of the Arduino.
At some transmitters, it is necessary to solder an antenna, simply use a 17cm long wire or look at the message board fot further information.

For further instructions on the soldering and the connection of the wattertrott components see: hier.

p.s. To safe some wire you may bypass the mass of the transmitter’s and the receiver’s GND and connect a single wire to the Arduino board.

homecontrol 4 me - (nearly) done!

When your homecontrol4me is nearly finished it may look like this...

Why “nearly” done?! Well, the microcontroller does not know what it needs to do, yet. A software is still missing. It is called Arduino Sketch – instructions about how to install it can be found on the next page.

Install your Software...

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